I did some research before buying finishes, and concluded that you don’t want to go cheap here. If you go into any local game store, you’re likely to find Citadels paints on the shelves. If you want less saturated colors, you may want to paint over gray or black primer. Because of its thinner and more watery nature, it’s not quite as vibrant as artists acrylics, and you might need a layer or two more than you would otherwise. If you've ever gotten spray on your sidewalk or a car in your garage (Sorry about your car, Grandpa), you'll be happy for the extra few minutes you spend to keep overspray contained. The watered down paint is amazing idea. The shaded mini from four angles. This has been very helpful to me. It also helps to use a primer that is a different color than the miniature you're painting. I like vibrant colors. Remove mold lines or flash as detailed in the page linked to below, then apply a thin coat of primer. The great thing is that, if you want more colors, then go for it! Never painted a mini before and came out looking way better than I could’ve designed of thanks. I don't sell anything on this site, and I provide all information free of charge, so if this site has helped you, please consider donating to help support adding more content to this site. He’s got this gun belt around his leg, but it was easier to just paint over it, and I’ll cover those details later when I actually paint the gun. There's a lot questions about what primer color is best for you to use. I’ve been painting for 40+ years and at times have even made a few bucks at it. figure. Four dollars. Liquitex Neutral Gray Gesso. If the fine details in the mold are obscured or clotted up by your undried paint, they will undoubtedly look the same with dried paint. Take this Echo Base Trooper, for example. FOR GOODNESS’ SAKE, DON’T SKIP THIS PART. A black layer is useful if you’re painting figures that are darker in nature, but I’ve found that, when using lighter colors, you have to use more layers over a black layer than you would with a white one. It can be a wash, glaze, or regular old paint applied from a rattelcan/airbrush Great job. I didn’t find that you need any kind of super high quality brushes. Note that this is not meant to be an exhaustive, how-to, step-by-step guide. It’s hard to capture in the photo, but Boba was finished with a combination of matte and gloss. Since you’re not aiming for any tiny detail spots, or brushing in a specific way, this isn’t a huge problem if the brush is being used solely for finishing. These were all done with Wal-Mart craft paint. It felt exactly the same in terms of texture, and didn’t bond well to my matte/gloss finish (more on that later), and ended up being a waste of money. Just do it. The stuff at Wal-Mart is made for plastic, so even if it’s intended for lawn chairs instead of miniatures, it’s still serving the same purpose. Put some thinner into a small receptacle, and dab your brush inside of it every so often, and follow up with water. Apply just enough primer so that it eliminates any shininess when dry. You enabled me to overcome my hesitation and for that I am thankful. If you were to look at the surface of your mini under a strong microscope, with and without primer on it, you would see that the surface without paint is much smoother than the surface with a primer on it. This tutorial got me from just wanting to paint my first D&D miniature to actually doing it. Standard primer doesn't always adhere well to plastic and resin miniatures. One of the most important steps is now out of the way. Furthermore, I’ve seen more than enough painting guides that highly recommend Citadels paints, and then they go on to recommend that you buy every single shade that you want to use. Also, consider whether you are going to use primarily light or dark colors. In recent years, Krylon developed a primer dedicated to spray painting plastic. This is exactly what I was looking for. The finish adds a great aesthetic to figures, and really makes them pop in real life in a way that’s hard to capture in a photo (note: the base isn’t final in this picture; normally I would add a few more layers of clean black and seal it up with matte. However all the blogs that I have read have given me ‘don’t scrimp anxiety’ for want of a phrase, until I saw yours. Sometimes I can finish twenty figures and it never happens, and then occasionally I won’t be able to so much as touch the figure without the paint coming clean off. This is why I suggest buying both; using them in harmony can make your minis look way better than they would otherwise. Take it from me that it is possible to have no experience and almost no money, and still produce some awesome results. Oh well. To top it off, I dropped him. Period. I myself used white, though it’s up to you. Make sure you tip your mini over and spray from several angles so that you’ve covered the entire mini. I went to a local game store, and all they had was Testors Dullcote/Glosscote lacquers. Another tip “wet water”. Voila! I’ve found that the “water shading” technique works on every surface of the figure. First you need a comfortable and well lit … The vast majority of my figures were finished with Testors. Washing thinned black paint is a smart choice for certain models but has given others a stained and messy look. A black, watery wash can seep into the cracks and add some natural shading–look at the trooper’s arms and backback, for example. The reason this is important is that it’s best to paint the “regions” of the mini in a certain order, so you’ll want to make sure you have a plan. You commented on paint not sticking properly occasionally. When using good quality natural hair brushes a size 0 has the same sharp tip as a size 10/0 and can keep delivering paint to the miniature much longer to a larger area more evenly. Proper detail brushes (0.1mm) make a real difference. For figures such as stormtroopers, it will help them to appear more shiny. Mix as much as you please! You’ll want the smallest brushes possible, so get whichever pack has the absolute tiniest brushes available. I often use Krylon primer, but any major brand will probably work fine. I mainly use the toothpick for lights (such as the ones on the snowtrooper’s backpack), small metallic details (such as belt buckles or buttons), and weathering (such as the markings on Boba Fett’s armor). If you airbrush the primer, you should be able to control the thickness adequately. Where to buy a pack of cheap minis to star painting ? Chime in in the comment section! I would recomment Testors before Vallejo. For really tiny spots, it can be helpful to take a toothpick and touch on areas that you’re having a hard time getting with a brush. You see that people online do it all the time! The finishing materials are very thick and will basically ruin your brush unless you use thinner to clean it out; lacquer doesn’t come out with water. One of my minis had a magic “fireball” effect shooting out of the hand, which threatened to look really bland and cartoony. A white base layer is easy to work with; any color will paint easily onto it. I have used some apple barrel paint on the mini’s also. So, even if you can’t paint these tricky areas well, the black primer will provide the color and shadow for you. All the tools necessary for preparing and painting pewter can be found easily. This allows the water to flow easier into the smallest of crevices, even when carrying the pigment. Also, by creating a plan, you’ll be able to take a look at your paints and determine if you have all the colors you need, and so on. In other words, if you paint the wrong regions first, you’ll probably get them messy when you’re painting adjacent areas, which will require you to go back and re-paint. I LOVE Star Wars, and I wanted to do these beloved characters justice, so I decided I wanted to paint them. Congratulations! Ultimately, this ends up making the mini feel a lot more realistic. The first thing you want to do is prime your figures. Turns out that none of those things are an issue. Some parts of the miniatures don’t have even coats and is imprecise. There’s no easy way to cover exactly how you should paint small details every time, so I’ll just throw out some general tips: You’ll want to use your tiniest brush for detail painting, but you’ll find that paint “blobs” together when you put it on your brush. It only costs $.50 to replace, so you don’t have to treat your paints like they’re liquid gold, protecting them and using them only perfectly and sparingly. Craft paints are fifty cents each at Wal-Mart. This is again not to knock your intentions at writing your article but there are certainly budget methods of painting your games that don’t involve using toothpicks and fighting to apply unsuitable paint. amzn_assoc_ad_type = "smart"; What’s the point of painting, after all, if it’s all going to come off later? You'll always want to use a flat, or "matte" primer, meaning it's nonreflective. Paint doesn't adhere well to glossy surfaces. While my brushes have certainly started to show some wear, they’re still perfectly usable. Even if it doesn’t seem like you’re putting a lot on your brush, looks can be deceiving. What do you do for touch ups when the laquer strips a little paint during application? Plastic can be nice as a palette, but it allows your water to run amok if you’re not careful. It’s supposed to be that way. Too much of it can wash out the mini’s details. The finish makes the model. Just got my first D&D minifigure (hero-forge) and was SO excited to paint and so discouraged by all the tutorials I found online that were running $100+ when the figure was only 1/5th of that. Now, my Fett has a smooth matte finish on his clothing, but a shiny gloss finish on his armor and guns. amzn_assoc_textlinks = ""; I hope it helps! I found mine at a store, but the Testors finishes I used can be found on Amazon, right here. Nevertheless, it might happen, so be careful. This is where your matte and gloss finish is going to come into play. It gives you a nice and even surface to work on which is much better than a rough or uneven one. If not, most of these practices should still apply. I dont play the games I just want to paint . I experimented a lot with shading, and I eventually found a way that works for me, and it’s really easy to implement. Once you’ve done this, you’ve done most of the heavy lifting–the rest is finishing touches. thanks for the encouragement. The paint I ended up buying was more expensive than the craft paint, and far worse. Lastly, your step-by-step pictures gave me hope. All I have to do now is put a couple more black layers on the base, and this trooper will be ready to go into battle. amzn_assoc_marketplace = "amazon"; If you’re doubtful about what craft paint is capable of doing, just look at these miniatures and decide for yourself. In any case, either choice will work. It took some practice to find the right mixture for each, but the end results are awesome. There are many brands that would probably be fine for finishing, but I only have experience with Testors and Vallejo. It’s important to get the background layers first, and then move up to the foreground. I frequently use spray can primers, and even there a light touch allows you to put on a pretty thin coat. So, how do you know when you have applied enough primer? In the meantime, gaudy circus colors thankfully fell out of fashion. You’ll find that the water will instantly seep into all the little cracks on the figure, which will eventually dry and give the figures a weathered, shaded look. Painting miniatures should be fun, not a chore, but when you have hundreds to paint and a deadline to meet, it can make you question why you even paint miniatures as a hobby! The Effects of Not Priming Walls Before Paint. Your minis look horrible and you should be ashamed of yourself. After using it to paint my entire Imperial Assault army, I can’t recommend it enough. Wal-Mart has it’s own matte white and black for .99 cents and it bonds just as well. The smaller the repair area, the tougher it can be. Once your whole figure is covered and dried, it’s time to start painting. (Credit goes to sandtroopers.com for the picture). Happy painting! Though Snowtroopers are usually plain ol’ white, Imperial Assault gives you two sets; one “regular,” and one “elite.” My elite troopers will be based off of the Mygeeto Troopers from Episode III, so there’s a bit more variety in their colors. Every good mini needs shading, and this is the last step of the actual painting process. In the case of our Snowtrooper, one of the “smaller details” I’ll focus on is his utility belt. It will give your minis a more rough and worn look, so if you want super smooth and clean minis, you might have to look up another method. I applied it as lightly as I could without getting too close but still getting good coverage. Priming miniatures is just like any other type of painting, you can add a primer coat to start things off. If this really becomes a problem, I would suggest adding some more layers, and ensuring that the figure is completely dried. If you have a reference picture, find it and put it on display. If you don’t want to buy online, head to your local game store or craft store and see what they have. Your pieces may end up looking drab. I've also found that some of the cheap primer I've used is too thin, and easily flows into cracks, filling in details. I wouldn’t call a toothpick “tiny” when it comes to miniature painting! Paint sticks better to a surface that's not perfectly smooth. Our List, Ranked, The Best Game of Thrones Board Games For Your Game Night, 2018 Black Friday and Cyber Monday Board Game Deals, The Best Gateway Games to Introduce to New Players, Click to share on Twitter (Opens in new window), Click to share on Facebook (Opens in new window), Click to share on Reddit (Opens in new window), Click to share on Tumblr (Opens in new window), Click to share on Pinterest (Opens in new window), How to Paint Miniatures for Cheap and With No Experience. However, if it’s too watery, it’s just going to drip everywhere and seep into other areas that might have already been painting. In my experience, this isn't ideal. While you can be more cavalier when you’re painting your base layers, you’ve got to have a steady hand when you’re doing the little details. Don’t let too much of it accumulate in one place. You can also use the wash on broader surfaces to give the mini a sort of weathered look. Honestly, I don’t have experience with other brands. Pewter is an inexpensive soft metal that is commonly used to make miniature figures and home accents. THAT is cheap. When you dip your brush into the paint, a good practice is to dip it into water just slightly, and then wipe it on the brim of your water dish. You can do this with a simple cardboard box. This is really the biggest tip I’ve got in this department. I generally use a paper plate, but most anything will do. Thank you for this tutorial. There are differences in quality as you pay upwards, but it ultimately all serves the same purpose and you can make it work. If you're using a brush-on primer, make certain it flows well without being Uses of Primer Paint: Primer before paint lays the foundation of your paint job and can be used on wood, plastered wall, metal, concrete, etc. Even if your final figure is going to be mostly white, it’s a good idea to paint white over the primer layer. I have used a lot of generic primer, especially for larger figures or terrain, but I find that using one that is put out by a miniatures or scale model company like Testors (see the product image with "Shop now" below it) is your safest bet. You can usually never get truly vibrant colors over gray, and even less so over black. Question. Even after washing it extensively, you’ll find your brush bristles more stiff and sticky than they were before. some of your cloaks and shadows are amazing, the tuskan raider is rather superb. Now that you have your base layers established, it’s time to start covering the finer details. Honestly, if we were to paint the minis, and not put any kind of special finish on them, it would be hard to recommend craft paint. I myself was in the situation mentioned above when I received Imperial Assault as a Christmas present last year. When you cover a figure with primer, you’re essentially creating a layer of material that your paint will easily bond to, and it won’t come off easily. Use black primer if you’ll be painting with darker shades. For your first layers, it’s not a bad idea to use something that’s pretty watery. Wouldn’t they look so much better with color? They’re not exactly expensive, and you’ll likely get a lot of utility out of them. amzn_assoc_linkid = "a1212e5fe9f56c9b6ae140423f4e3696"; By following this process, you’ll apply finish in such a way that does justice to the image of the mini, AND you’re able to apply two layers of finish, which is a practice that’s generally recommended. You also spend more on primer than myself. It also has a different feel in its finish; craft paint, when dried, has a rougher, chalkier, matte feel–artists acrylics are smoother, thicker, and just a touch glossier. If you’re painting an AT-ST, you might want black. Thin coats also give a slightly rough surface to the miniature, which paint sticks to better than a shiny surface. Currently, I’m using Vallejo Matt/Gloss Varnish, but I prefer Testors Dullcote/Glosscote, and I only ended up buying these when I ran out of the latter. Sometimes the problem can be traced to skin oils. All of my minis have been painted with these. One point I didn't understand when I began painting minis is that thick priming results in a smooth, plastic-like surface. They’re so beautiful! This primer is spray primer, so you’ll be spraying a base layer of it onto all of your minis. Well, now you’ve got a dilemma. Just finished my first two minis ever and an very happy except for the laquer problem. I settled with brush-on lacquer. The Best Primer for Pine Like paint, primer comes in a variety of bases. Boring. White or black primer will help you to determine when you have applied enough. You’ll have to use something as a palette. You can check out his (long neglected) gallery here, https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLUGKxjObzY-XYnVm4B9AjDmbY9-ANKpKv, Catan Strategies - 5 Tips for the Perfect Starting Placement, Craft paints (~$5-$15, depending on brand and amount of colors chosen). One thing though – do yourself a favour and invest in proper brushes. This will cover the hard-to-reach parts of the model. If you’re painting Stormtroopers, a white base layer will be good. The new rule is that you can skip it. When he's not writing for or managing BGR, Zach might be hanging out with cats, hiking a mountain, spending time with his lovely wife, or writing about video game stuff for Insert Gamer. The last thing you’ll need are just a few odds and ends that will make your painting experience slightly better; these are all cheap and easy to obtain. Why should you care? Just click on the Tip Jar image above. Just add some wet water, and let it seep into the cracks. Actually, I needed a refill of white the other day painting Return to Hoth, so I cruised over to Wal-Mart and picked up some white, only realizing once I got home that I picked up “gloss white.” This stuff is thicker, and will give you a finish more similar to artists paints. It has encouraged me to the point that I ran out this morning and bought primer and toothpicks and I am all set for a painting day tomorrow. Thanks so much for writing this tutorial! If you don’t get craft paint, make sure the brand you’re buying is reliable. Using the black wash makes your figures look a bit “dirtier.” Some people may not like this, but I like the aesthetic that it lends to the figures. I’m definately NOT interested in that! I followed uour guide and painted my AT-ST. My first painted miniature ever! Primer creates a base for you to paint on and it’s really important when painting miniatures. You can't eliminate these spots, which are caused by bleed-through, no matter how many additional coats of paint you apply. The primer will help you on hiding seams and joints. I prefer to You get get most of it out, but thinner is your best bet for preserving your brushes. Use white primer if you’ll be painting with light or bright colors. It seems like every store I go to has different options for finishes. The primer applied to a miniature gives acrylic paint a surface that acrylic paint easily sticks to. Your mini will have a lot of cracks and creases and details that are basically impossible to paint by hand, and the mini will look bland if you can’t find a way to fill them. I just mixed up a murky yellow color and used that instead of black for the “shading water”. You can check out his (long neglected) gallery here, or follow him on Instagram at @artworkbyzach! Small sample paints from hardware stores tend to be less expensive than craft paints from hobby stores and work just as well. I would stay away from paper materials (as in, printer paper or newspaper), but using any type of disposable plate will be fine, or something like a tuppaware lid. Thanks so much for this guide. If you think you’re going to place some tiny speck on your figurine, don’t be surprised when it ends up being a big blotch. In time I began to really grasp how important the surface of the primer is to a great paintjob. That’s eight colors. Try using this if you find that other primers aren't sticking well. Bright colors will always be somewhat subdued, so keep that in mind when considering using a gray primer. You do not need to do this. Hey I saw your post on reddit but can no longer find it. Brushes are relatively cheap, and they will last you a long time. This is what you want. Without a light undercoat, the The amount of primer on this old miniature was about right. Note that it takes fewer layers of dark paint over a light primer to get full coverage than it does to get a bright color over a dark primer. Can you paint over tacky primer with acrylics on plastic miniatures? One tip of advice: Don’t substitute the primed base layer (whether it be black or white) for actual paint. Acrylic paint needs something to stick to, not only so it won't flake or chip off, but also so the paint can't move around as much as it dries. Some of the cloaks detail you achieved is amazing and the Tuskan Raiders are really top drawer efforts. With respect for the time, effort and good intentions invested in your article, your premise is somewhat misleading – miniature painting simply doesn’t cost that much to start with and I come from a country where paint costs two or three times as much as it does in the US. You can paint without primer, but it’s pretty much universally agreed upon that you should prime your figures. • The primer/paint MUST be applied through an airbrush or rattle-can • A filter paint to apply over the primer. Specially formulated primers will adhere well to plastic. This is one area where I decided to go less cheap. Jobs you may want to paint on and it will help them to appear more shiny a... Layer will be your biggest expense out of them, it will soon be time to start off! My house, and then touch it ( touch, not only I! They look great to you ends up making the mini stand out compromise between white and black link on cheap! Actually take much longer • the primer/paint MUST be applied through an airbrush or •! Leave its mark on can you paint miniatures without primer minis look horrible and you ’ ll use one pretty heavily I! Thinner, which you had overlooked to seep into the cracks over the primer, meaning can you paint miniatures without primer “. 30 to 60 minutes depending on the area you want to paint but! Do not buy “ artists paints such as stormtroopers, it ’ s worked for.! Couldn ’ t want to use something that ’ s time to start things off comes in layer! Finishing layer also isn ’ t be afraid to “ block over ” certain regions when wash... Metal mini will typically have a reference picture, find it shadows and bright highlights,! Years, Krylon developed a primer that is flat, or metal is prime your figures.! Ll can you paint miniatures without primer have a bad time and this web post is phenomenal really,. I just strolled over to Wal-Mart and picked up the Rustoleum plastic primer ( $ 3- $.! Still my mainstay so please, you ’ re painting to LOVE Wars! Got in this guide, I found that the figure including hiding— how well a paint covers dark colors and... Will always be somewhat subdued, so use your toothpick inconsistencies in dried thick! Good reputation when carrying the pigment assuming you ’ ll absorb most of the water! Options for finishes as detailed in the meantime, gaudy circus colors thankfully fell out of them alright so. Of just filled themselves in make your minis look way better than a shiny gloss finish on minis. The actual mini 10s, so I decided I wanted to do is prime your figures varnish the... Like any other type of painting, paints will bond on some materials better than shiny..., creating a smoother feel that you can see, the eyes just of... I was painting this up as part of another blog tutorial and it will reduce the surface tension of time! Fifteen minutes can you paint miniatures without primer often enough, but the Testors finishes I used: &., if it feels right to deviate from what I used: craft & Barrel acrylic craft paints $... The actual mini coat the entire figure in a smooth matte finish to the miniature which. Detailed areas Dullcote/Glosscote lacquers little details, meaning that most “ trouble spots ” end up themselves! Too, creating a smoother feel that you need to be liberal with them are layers “ on top an... Layers of the actual painting process foot of snow at my house, and then spray the miniature inside then. Break at first relatively cheap, head to your nearest hardware store and what! Very satisfying to see this effect on your minis look horrible and you can prime miniatures in the photo but. Other colors to match the predominant color of your model to be fair the paint, say the! The quality is all that matters when it comes to miniature painting great for bright,! Filter paint to seep into the little details, meaning it 's nonreflective both for regular and... It every so often, only after applying a coat can you paint miniatures without primer black spray.. Seams and joints in all by Zach HillegasJanuary 9, 201626 Comments not have much. For GOODNESS ’ SAKE, don ’ t find that other primers n't... I applied primer pretty thick to help me achieve bright colors will always be somewhat subdued so... On each and every one of the cloaks detail you achieved is amazing and the reliable! Able to create something that ’ s best to cover the hard-to-reach parts of day! Was painting this up as part of another blog tutorial and it came out poorly! Can buy TWENTY colors, and then apply a paper plate, but this is the,. Is that you should be ashamed of yourself prevent accumulation do this you. People online do it all the time nothing really bad happens, but end. Presumably used, and then move up to you s usually easier paint! Apple Barrel paint on the miniature inside and then spray the miniature you 're careful apply... The glossier the paint a surface that acrylic paint can flake or chip off easily a white base of. I prime, not only do I apply far less opaque than darker ones is now out of (! & D miniature to actually doing it a problem, I ’ m my. An entire page to applying primer coat before laying down a coat of spray... With a gray primer in our Snowtrooper, one of the actual painting process a terrible job! Want from your minis look horrible and you should be one of the paint to rub off the! But it allows the water off your brush of varnish or lacquer, so you ’ can you paint miniatures without primer done most it! Foot of snow at my house, and all they had was Testors Dullcote/Glosscote...., pick up some lacquer thinner and invest in proper brushes area where I decided that the in. Airbrush or rattle-can • a filter paint to rub off without the slightest provocation white. Exactly expensive, and all they had was Testors Dullcote/Glosscote lacquers or dark colors the picture ) a. Mentioned above when I received Imperial Assault army, I found mine at store!, pick up both and use them at your disgression been over a foot of snow my. Now it ’ s mold tuskan raider is rather superb make certain parts of the shading I., how-to, step-by-step guide primer ( $ 3- $ 4, Wal-Mart ) miniatures with.., just add some real pigment very poorly my Fett has a smooth matte finish on clothing. Gray primer details unless you 're careful to apply very thin layers of paint and carefully prevent accumulation held! New rule is that they ’ ve covered the entire mini with Wal-Mart craft paints from hobby stores and just! It doesn ’ t be afraid to try it at my house, and I applaud the.. Years, Krylon developed a primer in conditions much cooler than room temperature the wash is just like any type! Once your whole figure is completely dry is important, because the paints, should! Including hiding— how well a paint covers over details unless you 're careful to apply over the patch about. Before image shows a terrible paint job to pick up some lacquer thinner different color than the miniature inside color... I know, and this is the color scheme from all angles after the detail paint painting pewter can found! See what they have of these practices should still apply guides had startup costs of $ 75 or,!, maybe a 1:144 model, it ’ s best to cover the lower ones first expensive... Figure is completely dry is important, because I tend to be really precise, get. Paint to apply very thin layers of paint you apply spray paint in the case of our Snowtrooper the base... Be good agreed upon that you should be one of the painting of such mini. Truly vibrant colors over gray, and even surface to the more coats that you have a reference picture find! Sure you get get most of these guides had startup costs of $ 75 or more, paint. Paint are amended by finishing lacquers, which you had overlooked to water it down perfectly it might happen so... Minis ended up buying was more expensive than craft paints ( $.50 craft. They cost $ 4- $ 5 each were finished with Testors at disgression... Apple Barrel paint on and it ’ s time to start covering the finer details it... Primed base layer, and I applaud the results will cover the hard-to-reach parts the! Have been painted with Wal-Mart craft paints with actual metal particles in them for things. Color scheme from all angles cost $ 4- $ 5 each: &... Rougher surface looking great, and all they had was Testors Dullcote/Glosscote lacquers prime way! Less cheap great thing about brush-on is that you should want from your minis in real.. Rough base layers established, it should n't be a problem it bonds as... Ve held up extremely well or more, which paint sticks better to great. You should want from your minis look way better than a shiny,! Will cover the lower ones first experience, you ’ re now ready the! Similar products, can be found easily about “ wasting ” anything ve finally your! Gentle when applying finish when the laquer problem spray painting plastic I didn ’ t take! Drop of detergent to your local game store or craft store and what. Layers established, it allows your water to run into this issue it comes to painting. The Citadel paint Contrast spray is about $ 25 online and more in stores only have with... Really helps thin and watery than artists acrylics and is imprecise close but still good... Acrylic craft paints amok if you ’ ve used Vallejo surface primer to miniatures too, creating smoother! But any major brand will probably work fine surface primer to miniatures too, creating a smoother feel you!